Polishing Materials Cheat Sheet

The big idea

These materials don’t usually smell “loud.” They change shape:

• Radiance / diffusion / halo

• Smoothness / blending / transitions

• Body in the heart

• Clean modern finish

• Longevity without heaviness

1) White musks (clean finish + diffusion + lasting)

Quick roles

• Backbone musks = structure + lasting fabric

• Character musks = signature (pear lift / metallic linen / cosmetic powder)

Dosing guardrails (concentrate)

• Total musks combined:

  • Fresh/transparent styles: 5–12%

  • Musky/clean styles: 12–25%

  • Heavy bases: higher, but risk “musk blanket”

Individual quick guide

• Galaxolide (clean laundry cloud, commercial diffusion)
  2–10% (start 2–4). Risk: “everything smells the same clean.”

• Ethylene Brassylate (EB) (neutral cushion, silky blender)
  0.5–3% (start 0.5–1). Risk: “oily/heavy” if pushed.

• Helvetolide (pear-lift top-note musk, modern radiance)
  0.5–5% (start 0.5–1). Risk: pear-musk dominates.

• Ambrettolide (fine ambrette skin-musk diffusion, elegant top-to-base)
  0.1–2% (start 0.1–0.5). Risk: “soapy-musky blur.”

• Habanolide (powerful modern backbone, linen/metallic freshness)
  0.1–2% (start 0.1–0.3). Risk: “steely/ironed linen.”

• Exaltolide (quiet natural skin-luxury roundness)
  0.5–3% (start 0.5–1). Risk: too soft/powdery.

• Cosmone (cosmetic powder volume, plush base stamp)
  0.1–3% typical; higher only if it’s the theme. Risk: “makeup cloud.”

• Silvanone Supra (powder-animal body + huge tenacity)
  0.1–2% typical; higher only for heavy styles. Risk: heavy/animalic.

Simple “2-musk method” (works for most students)

Pick one backbone + one character:

• Backbone: Galaxolide or EB

• Character: Helvetolide or Ambrettolide or Habanolide or Cosmone

2) Diluents & carriers (solubility + handling + stability)

What they’re for

• Make materials measurable

• Prevent crystals / separation

• Control viscosity

• Smooth evaporation (but too much = flat)

Spray perfume guardrail

In ethanol sprays, keep “heavy carriers” typically under ~10% total unless solving a real solubility problem.

Quick compare + typical ranges (spray EDP/EDT)

• DPG (workhorse diluent for stocks/bases)
  0–3% typical, up to 8% if needed. Risk: dulls sparkle.

• PG (propylene glycol) (water-friendly co-solvent; more “formulation”)
  0–2% typical. Risk: tacky/heavy feel; can flatten lift.

• 1,3-Propanediol (broad compatibility; clean handling)
  0–3% typical, up to 5–8% if needed. Risk: still flattens if high.

• TEC (triethyl citrate) (strong solubility tool for solids/resins)
  0–5% typical, up to 10% if necessary. Risk: sits perfume down.

• Benzyl Benzoate (resins/balsams/viscosity solver; heavy base helper)
  0–3% typical, up to 8% for resin-heavy. Risk: base-weight/less lift.

Problem → best solvent tool

• Crystals / “snow” → try TEC (1–5%), then Benzyl Benzoate (1–3%)

• Resins/balsams too thick → Benzyl Benzoate (2–10%) (or TEC)

• Water/surfactant system → PG or 1,3-Propanediol

• Just need easy stock dilutions → DPG (default)

3) Salicylates (solar floral body + mid diffusion + polish)

What they do

• Add sun-warmed creamy floral body

• Keep the heart alive (prevents “mid collapse”)

• Smooth edges; improve “commercial floral” feel

Typical ranges (concentrate)

• Hexyl salicylate (modern floral body) 0.5–6% (start 1–2)

• Amyl/isoamyl salicylate (warmer solar glow) 0.3–4% (start 0.5–1.5)

• Benzyl salicylate (base polish/fixative floral base) 0.5–6% (start 0.5–2)

• Methyl salicylate (wintergreen) 0.01–0.2% (trace only)

Common mistake

Too much salicylate = creamy/oily + muted top. Fix by dropping 1–3% and restoring top structure.

4) Hedione / Hedione HC (radiant air + floral diffusion)

What it does

• Adds air/space (“open windows” effect)

• Increases presence/diffusion without “heaviness”

• Polishes harshness and improves transitions

Typical ranges (concentrate)

• Hedione: 2–15% common (can go much higher in airy styles)

• Hedione HC: 0.2–5% common (stronger per %; often max ~10% in many teaching contexts)

Student tip

Hedione can make a perfume feel “less strong” up close but more present in the air. Evaluate at arm’s length.

5) Iso E Super (velvet woody-amber scaffold)

What it does

• Adds smooth woody volume and modern polish

• Creates a soft aura and improves “3D” structure

• Bridges citrus → floral → musk/wood beautifully

Typical ranges (concentrate)

• 1–5% support

• 5–10% strong backbone (very common modern zone)

• 10–20% dominant woody signature (intentional style)

Common mistake

Too much Iso E = “dry pencil wood / top feels dead.” Fix by adding Hedione + a soft musk cushion, or reduce Iso E 2–5%.

6) Modern muguet materials (cool dewy floral lift)

What they do

• Create cool watery floral “dew”

• Boost heart diffusion

• Make florals feel “clean, professional, modern”

Typical ranges (concentrate)

• Hydroxycitronellal (classic muguet core): 1–4% (watch “soapy” if high)

• Mayol (clean petal polish): 0.5–2%

• Lilyflore (watery floral diffusion): 0.3–2%

• Cyclamen-type materials (cold watery air): 0.05–0.8%

Fast fix rules

• Too old/soapy → lower hydroxycitronellal, increase Lilyflore + cyclamen + Hedione

• Heart collapses → add Mayol + hydroxycitronellal at modest levels

Ultra-fast “What do I add?” troubleshooting

Copy/paste for students:

• Flat / dull / no sparkle → reduce carriers + heavy salicylates; add top structure (don’t “fix” with more DPG/BB/TEC)

• Harsh / jagged transitions → Hedione 2–8% + EB 0.5–2%

• Heart collapses after 30 min → Hexyl salicylate 1–3% + muguet set (Mayol/Lilyflore small)

• Needs modern commercial clean → Galaxolide 3–8% + Iso E 5–10% + Hedione 5–10%

• Needs “skin scent” elegance → Ambrettolide 0.2–1% + Exaltolide 0.5–2% (keep carriers low)

• Crystals / separation → TEC 2–5% or Benzyl Benzoate 1–3%, then re-test cold

25 common perfumery problems and how to fix them

1) “My perfume smells thin / hollow”

Add: Iso E Super 2–6% + Hedione 2–8%
Why: scaffold + radiant air.

2) “Top is nice, but the heart collapses after 20–40 minutes”

Add: Hexyl salicylate 1–3% + Mayol 0.5–1.5% (or Hydroxycitronellal 1–3%)
Why: salicylate gives heart body; muguet gives heart lift.

3) “It’s too sharp/jagged — edges feel scratchy”

Add: Hedione 3–10% + Ethylene Brassylate 0.5–2%
Why: air + soft cushion.

4) “It smells ‘muddy’ / too dense / no transparency”

Add: Hedione 5–15% (or swap some for Hedione HC 1–4%)
Also: reduce heavy salicylates/musks slightly
Why: ventilation + radiance.

5) “It’s too warm/sweet/cloying”

Add: Lilyflore 0.5–1.5% + Cyclamen material 0.1–0.5%
Optional: Hydroxycitronellal 0.5–2%
Why: cool watery floral “dew.”

6) “It’s too cold/thin — needs warmth and glow”

Add: Amyl salicylate 0.5–2% + Benzyl salicylate 0.5–2%
Why: solar warmth + base polish.

7) “I want a clean, modern ‘commercial’ finish”

Add: Galaxolide 3–8% + Iso E Super 4–10% + Hedione 4–10%
Why: clean cloud + modern scaffold + diffusion.

8) “My musks feel blank / laundry but not ‘perfume’”

Add: Ambrettolide 0.2–1% or Exaltolide 0.5–2%
Why: adds elegant skin character so it’s not just detergent.

9) “My perfume is too ‘perfumey’/old-school — I want more modern airy”

Add: Hedione 8–15% + Iso E Super 5–10%
Why: modern transparency + velvety wood air.

10) “The drydown feels disconnected from the heart”

Add: Benzyl salicylate 1–3% + Iso E Super 2–6%
Why: bridges floral base → woody base.

11) “It doesn’t project / no aura”

Add: Hedione 5–12% + Galaxolide 3–8%
Why: radiance + diffusive clean musk cloud.

12) “Projection is harsh / loud in a bad way”

Swap: reduce Galaxolide by 2–4% and replace with EB 1–3% (or Exaltolide 0.5–2%)
Why: softer diffusion, less ‘detergent blast.’

13) “It’s too dry / pencil-wood scratch (Iso E is shouting)”

Add: Hedione 3–8% + EB 0.5–2%
Optional: Hexyl salicylate 0.5–2%
Why: air + cushion + creamy heart body.

14) “The floral heart isn’t ‘petal’ enough”

Add: Mayol 0.5–2% + Hydroxycitronellal 1–3%
Why: modern petals + classic muguet core.

15) “My white floral feels heavy / indolic / thick”

Add: Hedione 5–15% + Lilyflore 0.5–1.5%
Why: lifts and adds watery clarity.

16) “I want a ‘skin scent’ clean radiance (not laundry)”

Use: Exaltolide 0.5–2% + Ambrettolide 0.2–0.8%
Support: Hedione 2–6%
Why: elegant macro musks + soft halo.

17) “I want a fruity-floral to feel more diffusive and modern”

Add: Helvetolide 0.5–3% + Hedione 3–10%
Why: pear-lift musk + radiance.

18) “My formula feels ‘flat’ like a blanket of musk”

Fix: lower total musks by 3–8%
Add instead: Hedione 5–10% (and/or Iso E 2–5%)
Why: replace blanket with air + structure.

19) “It’s too soapy / shampoo-floral”

Fix: lower Hydroxycitronellal by 1–3% and/or reduce Galaxolide by 2–4%
Replace with: Lilyflore 0.5–1.5% + Ambrettolide 0.2–0.6%
Why: shift from soap to dewy petals + fine musk.

20) “My citrus top dies too fast”

Add: Hedione 3–8% (gives lift into the heart)
Add: Iso E Super 2–5% (bridges top→base)
Optional: Helvetolide 0.5–2% (fresh top-musk lift)
Why: top doesn’t ‘fall off a cliff.’

21) “My perfume lasts but smells boring late (needs nicer late-stage)”

Swap: some Galaxolide for Exaltolide 0.5–2% or Ambrettolide 0.2–0.8%
Add: Benzyl salicylate 0.5–2%
Why: more elegant musky base + richer floral base.

22) “I’m getting crystals / ‘snow’ in my blend”

First: reduce the crystalline material concentration
Then choose one:

• TEC 2–5% (general solubility tool)

• Benzyl benzoate 1–3% (esp. heavier bases/resins)
  Why: improves solubility and stability.

23) “Resins/balsams are too thick / won’t blend”

Use: Benzyl benzoate 2–10% (best)
Alternative: TEC 2–10%
Why: BB is a classic resin/viscosity solver.

24) “My alcohol spray is hazy/cloudy”

Fix order:

1. Reduce heavy carriers (DPG/PG/PDO) by 1–5%

2. Add TEC 1–5% or BB 1–3% if you need help holding heavy materials
   Why: haze is often a solubility balance problem.

25) “Students can’t measure trace materials reliably”

Solution: make stock dilutions:

• DPG or 1,3-PDO 10% for most materials

• For stubborn solids/resins: TEC or BB 10–50% stocks
  Why: accurate dosing and repeatability.

Super-fast “choose this first” summary

• Need air/radiance/diffusion: Hedione

• Need modern woody scaffold: Iso E Super

• Need clean commercial cloud: Galaxolide

• Need soft cushion / blender musk: Ethylene Brassylate

• Need elegant skin musk: Exaltolide / Ambrettolide

• Need heart body + solar polish: Salicylates (Hexyl/Amyl/Benzyl)

• Need cool dewy floral lift: Mayol / Lilyflore / Hydroxycitronellal / Cyclamen

• Need solubility help: TEC / Benzyl Benzoate (and reduce crystals first)