Base 1 — Radiant Modern Foundation
Purpose: the most “universal” transparent scaffold (works with citrus, florals, woods, spices).
Formula (100%)
Hedione: 25
Iso E Super: 20
Galaxolide: 10
Ethylene Brassylate (EB): 6
Exaltolide: 2
Hexyl Salicylate: 6
Benzyl Salicylate: 2
Hydroxycitronellal: 2
Mayol: 1
Lilyflore: 1
Cyclamen-type material: 0.3
Ambrettolide: 0.7
DPG or 1,3-Propanediol: 24
Drop-in target: add 10–25% essential oils/naturals.
What it gives: air + modern wood + clean musk “fabric” + a heart that won’t die.
Base 2 — “Clean Muguet” Transparent Floral Cushion
Purpose: cool dewy heart (amazing for neroli, petitgrain, bergamot, lavender, rose EO, green notes).
Formula (100%)
Hedione: 28
Iso E Super: 12
Galaxolide: 8
EB: 8
Hexyl Salicylate: 6
Hydroxycitronellal: 4
Mayol: 2
Lilyflore: 2
Cyclamen-type material: 0.6
Ambrettolide: 0.8
Exaltolide: 2
1,3-Propanediol or DPG: 26.6
Drop-in target: 10–30% naturals (especially fresh/floral EOs).
What it gives: clean “petal dew” + heart diffusion + polished floral mid.
Base 3 — Woody-Musky “Skin Scent” Scaffold
Purpose: quiet luxury, soft aura; great for sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, incense, orris, musk-like naturals.
Formula (100%)
Iso E Super: 30
Hedione: 18
EB: 10
Exaltolide: 4
Ambrettolide: 1
Galaxolide: 4
Benzyl Salicylate: 3
Hexyl Salicylate: 3
(Optional) Habanolide: 0.5 (only if you want modern “linen” freshness)
DPG / 1,3-PDO: 26.5 (or 27 if skipping Habanolide)
Drop-in target: 10–25% naturals.
What it gives: velvety woods + elegant musky skin diffusion without “laundry.”
Base 4 — Solar Floral Body Builder
Purpose: gives naturals that “modern creamy floral body” (ylang, jasmine abs, neroli, rose, orange blossom accords).
Formula (100%)
Hedione: 22
Iso E Super: 12
Hexyl Salicylate: 10
Amyl (or Isoamyl) Salicylate: 4
Benzyl Salicylate: 5
Galaxolide: 8
EB: 6
Mayol: 1
Hydroxycitronellal: 2
Ambrettolide: 0.5
Exaltolide: 1.5
DPG / 1,3-PDO: 28
Drop-in target: 10–25% naturals.
What it gives: “sun-warmed” floral volume + heart continuity + commercial polish.
Base 5 — Fresh Citrus/Herbal Lift Base
Purpose: stops citrus/herbal EOs from disappearing; keeps it airy and “radiant.”
Formula (100%)
Hedione: 30
Iso E Super: 15
Helvetolide: 3
Galaxolide: 6
EB: 6
Lilyflore: 1
Cyclamen-type material: 0.4
Hydroxycitronellal: 1.5
Hexyl Salicylate: 4
Ambrettolide: 0.6
Exaltolide: 1.5
DPG / 1,3-PDO: 31
Drop-in target: 10–30% citrus/herbal EO blends.
What it gives: lift + airy projection + a heart that stays present.
Base 6 — “Resin/Spice Helper” Transparent Base (optional)
Purpose: when students drop in benzoin/opoponax/incense/spice EOs and things get thick, dull, or unstable.
Formula (100%)
Hedione: 18
Iso E Super: 18
Galaxolide: 6
EB: 6
Hexyl Salicylate: 5
Benzyl Salicylate: 3
Exaltolide: 2
Ambrettolide: 0.5
Hydroxycitronellal: 1.5
Mayol: 0.8
TEC: 10
Benzyl Benzoate: 8
DPG / 1,3-PDO: 20.2
Drop-in target: 10–25% resins/spices/woods.
What it gives: stability + solvency + still stays relatively transparent.
“Drop-in” classroom exercises (easy and very effective)
Give every student one base and the same EO set.
20% EO challenge
80% Base 1 (Radiant Modern)
20% essential-oil blend (their choice)
Evaluate: 0 min / 30 min / 3 hr / next day on strip.
Same EO, different bases (best learning)
Use the exact same 20% EO blend and compare across Base 1 vs Base 2 vs Base 3.The “overdose test” (teaches restraint)
Make 3 versions: 70/30, 80/20, 90/10 (base/EO).
Students learn where naturals collapse the structure.
Quick troubleshooting rules for students
Too flat / too musky-blanket: reduce total musks 2–5% and add Hedione 3–8%.
Heart disappears: add Hexyl Salicylate 1–3% + Mayol 0.5–1.5%.
Too soapy/old-school floral: reduce Hydroxycitronellal; increase Lilyflore + cyclamen.
Thick / cloudy / resins misbehaving: shift 2–5% into TEC or Benzyl Benzoate (and reduce DPG accordingly).
Too dry “pencil wood”: reduce Iso E 2–5% and add EB 1–2% + Hedione 3–6%.