Equalizing Materials Within a Blend

Perfumers always think about how powerful any given material is (natural or synthetic) 

before blending it with other essential oils.   

Consider these questions

• How diffusive, and influential is this material? 

• Is this material weak or powerful? 

• Should I put in a lot, or a little bit of this material? 

• Will this material take over my blend? 

• Or is this material so weak that I won't be able to smell it at all?  

As you can seem, the strength, impact and projection of a material is very important when blending accords. 

So what is a "Perfectly Balanced" accord? 

• If we use a large volume of a weak material

• together with a smaller amount of a powerful material. 

• This is a "perfect accord" 

• We balance out the various materials in blend/accord

• so that no single material takes over the blend. 

"Perfect Accords" are where all materials are balanced with one another according to their "Impact value." 

How to Equalize Materials

Example: 2 Material "Perfect Accord" 

Where do we find the "impact value" ? 

We are lucky! www.perfumersworld.com has a simple and effective "Impact Value" system any student of perfumery can, and should make use of. You may not always agree with their values, but it is a great place to start!

• Peppermint - according to www.perfumersworld.com has an "Impact Value" of 400

• Bergamot - according to www.perfumersworld.com has an "Impact Value" of 110 

According to Perfumers World, Peppermint is about 4 times as impactful as Bergamot. And from personal observations, I agree with this. Therefore, we need top use 4 times as much bergamot as peppermint to craft a "perfectly balanced" accord. 

So how do we use a calculator to find the "perfect balance"?

ANSWER: Divide the less impactful materials, by the MOST impactful material. 

400 divided by 110 = 3.65.

1 gram of peppermint oil 

3.65 grams of bergamot 

We need to mix 3.65 grams of bergamot with 1 gram of peppermint to result in a perfectly well balanced accord. 

QUESTION: Does this mean the above accord will be pleasant, or interesting?

NOTE * a "perfectly balanced accord" does not necissarily result in a pleasing accord! 

8 MATERIAL ACCORD EXAMPLE

• Benzle Acetate - has an "Impact Value" of 120

• Bergamot - has an "Impact Value" of 110 

• Lavender - has an "Impact Value" of 110

• Rose Otto - has an impact Value = 220

• Orris Butter - has an "Impact Value" of 40

• Coumarin - has an "Impact Value" of 120

• Sandalwood - has an "Impact Value" of 70

• Benzoin - has an "Impact Value" of 60

1. Find the highest impact value, in this case rose otto has the highest impact value of 220. 

2. We divide the highest impact number (rose / 220) by the impact value of all other materials to find a "balance" 

Note *The highest impact value material is always represented by "1" 

• Example: Benzle Acetate is 120. We divide rose, with an impact value of 220, by Benzle Acetate with an impact value of 120. Result = 2. We need 2 grams of benzle acetate to every 1 gram of rose otto.  

Rose Otto = 1 

• Bergamot = 110. Divide 220 by 110 = 2 

• Lavender = 110. Divide 220 by 110 = 2 

• Orris Butter 40. Divide 220 by 40 = 5.5 

• Coumarin 120. Divide 220 by 120 = 1.8 

• Sandalwood 70. Divide 220 by 70 = 3.15

• Benzoin 60. Divide 220 by 60 = 3.6

RESULT BALANCED ACCORD 

• Rose Otto - 1 

• Bergamot - 2 

• Lavender - 2 

• Orris Butter - 5.5 

• Coumarin - 1.8 

• Sandalwood - 3.15

• Benzoin - 3.6

The result is an extremely expensive! Powdery, rich rose amber.